Thursday, 24 August 2017

Vintage Edging 4

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Here’s a respite from all those pictorials – another vintage pattern made modern and 2 separate rows converted to continuous tatting.

Vintage Edging #4
Needleart 1921 (vol 8 issue 3)

3 colours? Yes I went crazy! Remember that visit to my old craft shop after 4 years? These are a few of those lovely pastels I bought and was dying to try out! Size 20 Anchor Mercer cottons.

The 2 rows in this sampler are tatted separately using ball and shuttle. However the schematics provided in pdf are for one-pass tatting – climbing out with 2 consecutive split rings. It is pretty easy to convert vintage patterns into continuous tatting.

Learned a lesson from the CnC edging fiasco earlier. The first row should face the direction we tat in. Once this base is established, it is easier to orient later rows. 

I tried something different with the 2-coloured onion rings this time. After tatting the blue chain around pink inner ring, I made an over-under or alligator join, thus getting a complete blue circle around! No colour blips and pretty neat result, right?

Sorry no in-process pics – I was happily engrossed in tatting with these new shades!

Long picots on the onion rings are made using a ⅜ inch picot gauge parallel to core thread. Thus final picot is half the size.

Instead of lock joining the Row2 chains to these long picots, I made an onion ring join to avoid colour blips (I would’ve got pink blips over the blue picots). Then continued with a 2nd half stitch, counted as 1ds. Since core thread remained continuous, care needs to be taken when tensioning the chains.
Lock joining the chain would give a more pronounced/distinct dip.

Future Idea : Tat Row 1 and return back, interweaving the long chains. Then start Row 2 all around this ‘Celtic’ center.



happy tatting :-)

Tuesday, 22 August 2017

gauging the lie of the land

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When making a picot in tatting, there are mainly 2 factors involved.
Which 2 factors ? – the half stitch(s) on either side of a picot and the position of picot gauge !
An interplay of just these factors can change the look and effect of the picot, as well as it’s functionality.
Comparing 3 types of picots here - interlocking, Mrs. Mee, & tuft - got me thinking about picot gauges. Gauge position was very interesting.

It started as a deconstruction of the 2 factors in various picot types we know of, but that is a Huge study and I’ve only just bit a small morsel at present and will require more time and concentration than I can manage at present. But keep an eye out …
For the present, I’m sharing only the various positions of gauges (that I know of. I welcome more input).

Picot Gauge in relation to Core thread
& where the stitch faces

Vertical v/s Horizontal
These are the standard options that we are all aware of.
I’ve used a 8mm gauge vertically and a ½in gauge horizontally.

Notice (in traditional tatting) -
In normal rings and chains the gauge lies above the core thread, whether it is held vertically or horizontally.
Vertical position -  picot has the hand (for ring) or ball (for chain) thread wrapped around both sides and we get the same size of picot as the width of gauge. Stitch is formed at the base of the gauge since gauge is at right angles to the core thread.
Horizontal position – the hand/ball thread lies across the entire width of gauge and the resulting picot is half the length of the gauge. Stitch is formed at the side of the gauge since gauge is parallel to the core thread.

Common practice is to RW – reverse work after a ring to tat the chain. But what if we don’t RW, and work the chain directly using unflipped stitches?
Carollyn pointed out an interesting aspect with beautiful pics here.
(in direct tatting)
If chains are tatted directly using reverse stitch ie. unflipped stitches in reverse order, then the gauge is held below the core thread, vertically or horizontally.
It holds true for reverse rings and 2nd side of split ring as well .

This establishes that where the stitch faces while tatting decides where the gauge is held!


Picot Gauge in relation to Core thread & the Half stitch

Now let’s bring in one more factor – the half stitch where the picot is to be made.
In all the following pictures, I have used the 8mm gauge vertically.

Picot is simply a length of bare thread between 2 half stitches.
Let’s tackle the fhs - first half stitch first.
After 4 stitches, we want to make a picot followed by a fhs. Above pic shows fhs being formed. Let’s call the left part the arch which will be compressed into a picot, and the right part is the loop of the half stitch.

Gauge is held above core thread, under the arch.
Inset pics show the completion of the process to form 1 picot.

Gauge is held above core thread, through the loop.

Gauge is held below core thread, through the loop.

Similarly for shs – second half stitch.

Gauge is held above core thread, under the arch.

Gauge is held above core thread, through the loop.

Gauge is held below core thread, through the loop.

Can you identify the gauge positions for regular picots, interlocking picots, Mrs Mee picots, and the tuft picots that were described in this post ?


If this seems confusing, pick up some scrap threads and give it a quick try to discover the joy of versatility! And like I said, this is only a tiny glimpse into the beautiful world of picots.


Happiness lies at the Core of Tatting !
Stay happy stay tatting always :-)

Saturday, 19 August 2017

hiding on a whim

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A week back I received an interesting email asking whether we can hide tails without sewing when ending on a split ring, something along the lines of Karen's video 161.
At the time I listed a few options/ideas for her to try while I recuperated….
(many more links listed in Tatting Resources page)
 
I've been very satisfied with my knot-free hiding using tatting over tails and whip stitching. But I do love a challenge! Couple of nights back I figured out a way (after 2 failed attempts where the ring unraveled as soon as I pulled to test it) to end on a split ring without sewing in tails and today I took pics.
And now as I prepare the post, looking for links, I find that Karen’s method is basically the same as Frivolé's with the addition of a lock join. This join helps to secure the ball thread further. Frivolé’s method was also demonstrated here by mytattingplace.
So my method turns out to be quite similar, too, if you scroll down !

Hiding tails in Split Ring without sewing
a pictorial
1. Start ring with Shuttle1. Tat till about the last 5- 6 stitches remain.
Then switch to Shuttle2 and complete the 2nd side.
2. Going back to Sh1, pull out a loop and finger tat the remaining stitches as in a SSSR. 
(loop-tatting the stitches)
3. Carefully close ring, keeping ample loop length.
4. Pass Sh2 through the loop (over - under) and over it's own thread ...
5 ... to make a half stitch or knot with Sh2 thread.
Make very sure it is on the side of loop that does not slide.
 6. Pull on Sh2 to tighten the half stitch as much as possible. 
 7. Pass Sh2 again thru loop (under-over).
8. Snip off Sh2, leaving a short tail still encapsulated within loop as in #7. 
Pull Sh1 to carefully close loop, trying to snug Sh2 tail as much as possible...
9. Sh1 loop disappears completely and Sh2 tail is flush against the base of ring. 
10. Snip off both tails. Voilà!
Tug all you want but the stitches do not unravel!

I call it whimsical 'coz am unsure how useful it will be. The only scenario I can think of right away is in SR braids where one can safely end with a SR. Or perhaps if one encounters mistakes and needs to snip off to make corrections, then we can minimise tails and sewing.
Anything else you can think of ?

I still hope it may come in handy sometime somewhere.

Till then, happy tatting and hiding without sewing 

ps. I haven't converted this pictorial to a pdf. If anyone wants, please let me know ...or use the icon at end of page